This Sunday Morning Showdown pits two accessible everyday timepieces against each other: the Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand and the Tissot Gentleman 38mm. These watches originate from different watchmaking traditions, Switzerland and Japan, yet both have earned considerable admiration from global watch enthusiasts in recent years. Today's feature aims to determine which of these two contenders, representing distinct approaches to affordable watchmaking, emerges victorious in a head-to-head comparison of design, functionality, and overall appeal.
Robert-Jan makes a long-awaited return to the series, advocating for the Tissot Gentleman 38mm, a recent release that is a more compact version of the popular 40mm model, maintaining its appealing style and competitive price point of €795. In opposition, Jorg champions the Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand, a new collection celebrating Orient Star's 75th anniversary. This model simplifies its dial design by omitting the power reserve indicator and features a distinctive overall aesthetic, priced at €880. The article encourages readers to participate in the ongoing poll to decide whether the Japanese Sakigake can surpass its Swiss rival.
The Appeal of Character: Orient Star Sakigake's Distinctive Charm
Jorg, in his defense of the Orient Star Sakigake Three Hand, emphasizes the importance of character and emotional connection in watch design. He argues that while the Tissot Gentleman series is popular, it lacks the distinctive personality found in other Tissot models like the PRX. The Gentleman, according to Jorg, feels overly polished and sterile, failing to evoke the same level of emotion that subtle imperfections or unique design elements can. He points to the watch community's appreciation for quirks, comparing it to the allure of Cindy Crawford's mole—a unique feature that enhances rather than detracts from her appeal. This perspective underscores a preference for timepieces that tell a story or possess a certain human touch.
The Orient Star Sakigake, on the other hand, embraces these "quirks." Jorg highlights the new Sakigake series' decision to forgo the traditional power reserve indicator, opting for a clean, crisp sunburst dial available in various colors, including silver, gold, and ice blue. The limited-edition copper dial with darker indexes is particularly praised for its aesthetic. The watch's 38.7mm case seamlessly integrates with its stainless steel H-link bracelet, featuring a visually intriguing combination of polished outer surfaces and hairline-brushed inner sections on the lugs. This contrasting finish, though initially appearing unusual, is lauded for its natural flow and ability to inject the watch with a compelling character, making it a more engaging choice than the Tissot Gentleman 38mm. The comfortable fit on the wrist and impressive build quality further solidify the Sakigake's appeal.
Tissot Gentleman 38mm: A Blend of Classic Aesthetics and Advanced Engineering
Robert-Jan argues for the Tissot Gentleman 38mm, highlighting its practical features and classic design, which he believes offer a superior choice despite some aesthetic criticisms. He suggests that while the Orient Star Sakigake's design elements, such as its polished surfaces and rounded shapes, might not appeal to everyone, the Tissot Gentleman provides a more conventional and reliable option. The Gentleman's Oyster-style bracelet with its polished center links, though not groundbreaking, is a time-tested and well-regarded design. He points out that the Sakigake's integrated lug spacing limits strap options, forcing wearers to commit to the H-link bracelet, which he views as a potential drawback for those who prefer versatility.
Beyond aesthetics, Robert-Jan emphasizes the Tissot Gentleman's functionality, particularly its inclusion of a date aperture at 3 o'clock, framed to match other applied elements on the dial. This practical complication enhances its utility as a daily wearer. The Powermatic 80 movement, with its Nivachron hairspring and 80-hour power reserve, stands out against the Orient Star's 50-hour reserve. He elaborates on the innovative laser-adjustment process used by ETA for the Powermatic 80, which ensures high precision and long-term rate stability by eliminating traditional regulating components. This advanced engineering, combined with the Gentleman's playful pyramidal sunburst dial that reflects light uniquely from different angles, offers a blend of reliability, modern technology, and understated elegance, making it an ideal choice for a first mechanical watch.