Audemars Piguet, a brand often associated with its iconic Royal Oak series, has once again showcased its innovative spirit by unveiling the Neo Frame Jumping Hour. This new timepiece represents a bold divergence from its traditional octagonal designs, marrying historical inspiration with futuristic aesthetics. Building on the audacities seen in 2024's [Re]Master02, the Neo Frame Jumping Hour resurrects a streamline-inspired design from 1929, presenting it in a surprisingly modern and compelling form. This release underscores the brand's ability to venture beyond its comfort zone and redefine luxury watchmaking with unexpected creations.
The Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour: A Modern Reinterpretation
The Neo Frame Jumping Hour draws directly from Audemars Piguet's extensive historical archives, particularly its collection of jumping hour watches from 1924 to 1951. Notably, the pre-model 1271, a dual-aperture timepiece from 1929, served as the primary muse for this contemporary rendition. The original 1271, produced in a limited run of 14 pieces across four distinct gold variants and a unique platinum model (now preserved in the Audemars Piguet Musée Atelier), emerged just before the 1929 stock market crash, marking the end of an opulent era. The jumping hour complication itself has a storied past, originating around 1650 in night clocks for enhanced legibility and later adapted for pocket watches and early 20th-century wristwatches. Its resurgence in the 1990s, with Audemars Piguet integrating it into minute repeaters and Cartier reissuing its Tank à Guichets, set the stage for its current revival. This new model, while deeply rooted in history, infuses contemporary proportions and mechanical advancements, making it a unique self-winding jumping hour offering from the brand.
The Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour, reference 15245OR, showcases a distinctive rectangular 18k pink gold case, measuring 47.1mm in length, 34mm in width, and a slender 8.8mm in thickness. Its design is characterized by eight gadroons on each side, which extend into elegant, tapering lugs, reflecting the Streamline Moderne movement's aerodynamic forms and fluid lines. This intricate CNC-machined motif is consistently echoed on the caseback, crown, and oscillating weight. A notable innovation is the watch's top surface, which features a black PVD-coated sapphire dial instead of traditional metal. This sophisticated design choice creates an illusion of projected time indications, with white numerals on matte black discs appearing almost to float beneath the surface. The absence of a metal frame at 12 and 6 o'clock presented a water-resistance challenge, overcome by bonding the dial plate directly to the sapphire crystal and screwing it into the case, ensuring a respectable 20m water resistance. The front displays a rectangular jumping hour aperture at 12 o'clock and an arched trailing minutes aperture at 6 o'clock, both framed in matte gold, offering a visually striking and highly legible time display.
Powering this innovative timepiece is the new Calibre 7122, an evolution of the Calibre 7121 introduced in 2022. This in-house automatic movement, measuring 29.6mm x 4mm, operates at a 4Hz frequency and boasts a 52-hour power reserve, nearly matching its predecessor despite the increased energy demands of the jumping hour mechanism. The efficiency is achieved through the use of lightweight titanium for the hour disc and aluminum for the minute disc, which also enhance shock resistance. Furthermore, a patented shock-absorbing system prevents unintended hour jumps during impacts. The watch is completed with a black calfskin leather strap, featuring a textured motif that seamlessly integrates with the lugs, providing a cohesive and elegant aesthetic. Available as part of Audemars Piguet's permanent collection, the Neo Frame Jumping Hour retails for EUR 64,900.
The introduction of the Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour serves as a compelling reminder that true innovation often lies in reinterpreting the past through a modern lens. This watch not only pays homage to historical design principles but also pushes the boundaries of contemporary watchmaking with its technical advancements and aesthetic boldness. It encourages enthusiasts and collectors alike to appreciate the intricate dance between heritage and futurism, proving that even within a brand renowned for its established icons, there is always room for audacious and captivating new expressions of artistry and engineering.