Experience the Timeless Artistry of Roman Tailoring
A New Direction in Creative Leadership
After the departure of designer Norbert Stumpfl in December, Brioni has embraced a fresh leadership model. The brand's latest collection, presented statically, was guided by Tommaso Angeli, recently promoted to chief product officer, and Flavio Cerbone, who joined from Prada Group. This strategic shift signals a new phase for Brioni, moving forward without an immediate successor in the creative director role.
Embracing Roman Aesthetics: A Philosophy of Elegance
Angeli articulates the brand's vision: a pursuit of authentic elegance deeply rooted in Roman style, characterized by 'nonchalance, sprezzatura, and a beautiful imperfection.' This philosophy shines through in the meticulously curated collection, featuring standout pieces such as a luxurious shearling rendition of the iconic Vagabond overshirt, first introduced in 1950, and a stunning tailored jacket crafted from horsehair.
The Art of Impeccable Craftsmanship
The collection's exquisite nature is a direct result of Brioni's dedication to craftsmanship. Representatives proudly highlight the labor-intensive production process, where a single lapel can take an entire day to sew, and the intricate attachment of sequins to a jacket's fabric can span several months. This level of detail underscores the brand's commitment to quality.
Nurturing Tailoring Excellence in Penne
Brioni's Penne ateliers are a hub of sartorial mastery, employing hundreds of specialized tailors. The brand also operates a dedicated school, ensuring a continuous flow of skilled artisans, not only for Brioni itself but also for the broader Italian tailoring industry. This deep well of expertise, coupled with the premium pricing of its garments, guarantees that an exceptional level of sartorial artistry and meticulous attention to detail are inherent in every piece.
Reigniting a Legacy of Innovation and Desire
The current presentation also pays homage to Brioni's historical approach to global expansion. Since the mid-1950s, the brand has championed its Roman-influenced tailoring and 'sportswear' (in its mid-century interpretation) through client-focused trunk shows. A pivotal moment in Brioni's history, often credited as the world's first menswear fashion show, took place in Florence in 1952. Modeled by the dashing Brioni employee Angelo Vittucci, this event captivated an audience of American buyers, igniting an international fervor for Roman tailoring and leading to the establishment of the Penne ateliers. The current leadership now faces the exhilarating challenge of revitalizing this innate desire by crafting a fresh interpretation of the Brioni identity.