Nestled within Industry City, a sprawling waterfront complex in Sunset Park, Confidant has emerged as one of the area's first full-service dinner-only restaurants. This bold venture by chef-owners Brendan Kelley and Daniel Grossman aims to transform the evening dining scene in this commercial hub, traditionally bustling with lunch spots but quiet after sunset. The challenge lies not only in attracting diners post-work hours but also in establishing itself amidst a unique environment that includes art studios, a federal prison, and a Costco. Despite its high-quality offerings, the restaurant struggles with proportion consistency and achieving a cohesive dining experience.
Confidant was launched by two friends who met while working at Roberta’s in Bushwick. Their culinary journey took them through prestigious establishments like Gage & Tollner and Per Se before they established their own venture. The interior design reflects warmth with wood, leather, soft lighting, and velvet curtains, transforming the concrete space into an inviting setting. The menu showcases a blend of sophisticated techniques and global pantry influences, offering dishes such as mortadella dusted with fennel pollen and house-made tuna prosciutto enhanced with beet juice. While these appetizers pair well with mineral-rich wines, main courses sometimes falter under excessive garnishing.
One standout dish is a prawn potpie crowned with golden puff pastry, providing a rich seafood bisque-like texture. Another highlight is a half chicken with perfectly crisp skin. However, some dishes suffer from portion imbalances; for instance, a multilayered chicory salad served on plates too small to accommodate it properly. Recently, Confidant introduced a daytime menu featuring items like a "mushroom chopped cheese," which creatively reinterprets the bodega classic with spicy chipotle mayonnaise and sautéed mushrooms.
The dessert section shines brightly, crafted by pastry chef Mariah Neston. A black-and-white mille-feuille presents chocolate dentelle cigars layered with vanilla and chocolate cream, while a coconut cake delights lunchtime patrons. Yet, despite these creative desserts, the overall dining experience lacks coherence, focusing more on individual dishes rather than the broader meal narrative.
As Industry City continues to evolve, drawing inspiration from successful urban developments like Chelsea Market, Confidant faces the challenge of becoming a magnetic evening destination. Its location, somewhat isolated from Brooklyn's main neighborhoods, necessitates a strong pull akin to a celestial body's gravitational force. With adjustments in portions, presentation, and a unified vision encompassing the entire dining process, Confidant holds promise to elevate its status from a mere statement to a true dining attraction.